Io Saturnalia!

There’s nothing quite like getting out onto the street and soaking up the atmosphere with others is there? I’ve been to Christmas celebrations in Chester before and even done a couple of blogs but this one was different. Recently I’d been lucky enough to discover a Roman re-enactment group very close to where I live and was invited to go with them through Chester, armed, but only with my camera.

Ordinarily I’d have headed straight for the town hall but this time, in order to catch up with the re-enactors, the meeting point was near the office of the Roman Tours by the Grosvenor Museum. It had taken longer than planned to drive to Chester and, fearing I’d be late, I just needed to figure out which street to head for. There was no need to worry though, because as I negotiated the busy traffic at the roundabout I heard a familiar cry ring out: “Io Saturnalia!” I followed my ears and - having said some hellos - set off with the resplendent looking troops and honourable ladies through the busy streets of Chester. An Emperor dressed in robes with a crown of laurel leaf may not be an everyday occurrence, but the sight of a standard bearer with his head in a lion’s mouth must certainly have caught one or two drivers by surprise, especially when they heard that repeated cry which is actually pronounced "Yo Saturnalia" and was the joyous Roman shout or greeting for the popular midwinter festival, honouring the god of agriculture and harvest: Saturn. The festival marked the end of the planting season and the tradition of Saturnalia involved feasting, gift-giving, role reversals (masters serving slaves) and a temporary suspension of normal rules, often called "December liberty". Some of the troops muttered that they weren’t keen on the role reversal side of things but they were certainly up for the week-long party that would ensue.

Both the Emperor and Governor of Britain were in attendance and took it in turns to explain the meaning of this centuries old festival to the onlookers. Fortunately, despite their disparaging comments about the foul climate of this northernmost province of their Empire, the weather was in our favour: a little cold but dry. The mood was good, as you can imagine and the crowd were loving it. There were one or two tongue-in-cheek cries of “What have the Romans ever done for us?” but they were given short shrift by the Roman Camp Prefectus (the local head of command) when the significance of Chester in ancient times was well articulated, the architecture lauded and the benefits of improved hygiene positively praised.

Speeches over, torches were lit and four of the legionaries stood facing the Cardinal points before sharing their light, which symbolised keeping the cold and hunger of the dark winter at bay. They were then ordered to form orderly lines and head two abreast through the streets. The shouting of the marching troops drew more attention and the crowds grew as we made our way around the city but being so vocal took its toll, especially on the cracked voices of those barking out the orders. In addition to everything being well orchestrated, this fun history lesson was imparted in a humorous way and there was a very good rapport between the re-enactors and crowd.

I’d expected a good turnout on the night but hadn’t realised how many photographers would be jostling for the same vantage points, this is a popular event. Fortunately, despite the streets being fairly dark, not many flash guns were going off, so the scenes retained some of the visual warmth and cosiness you’d associate with Christmas celebrations. Two thousand years ago “Io Saturnalia” would have been a common cry throughout Europe but this December night in 2025 it was just for those lucky enough to be in Chester.

Thank you Romans of DEVA VICTRIX LEGION XX, I enjoyed that all the more for being involved in a small way.