Letter from Seoul 49

24 Nov

I returned to Seoul from India about three weeks ago, and have resumed my usual slacker modus operandi. For an equal amount of time, I experienced a whirlwind journey that included New Delhi, Kochi, Chennai, Kolkata, Varanasi, Kathmandu, and back to New Delhi, with a side trip to Mathura. Never heard of Mathura? Me, either. This was the birthplace of Sri Krishna, who, according to legend, walked on water as his followers watched. Allegedly, Lord Krishna was born in 3228 B.C. and lived 125 years. The stories that passed along the Silk Road between Old Cathay and Byzantium – including Prince Sidhartha’s version of the Sermon on the Mount in Varanasi 400 years before Jesus of Nazareth can all be filed under: Nothing New Under the Sun.

As I’m not ready to retire from the road, I explained to Sookyung that India was calling my name again. She let me know: “It’s not calling my name.” And so I went solo, accompanied only by Anil Sharma, who is my friend and go-to resource for all things India. I kept in touch with Sookyung twice a day through Kakao – the KT (Korean Telephone) version of WhatsApp, which allows for free internet-based conversations.

I’m old enough that I went to Third Grade with Jesus.

An important lesson I’ve learned over so many years is the folly of saying “never” to certain experiences in life. Yet, I’ve had to eat my words more than I care to admit.

India.

“Never.” “The poverty ... the beggars ... the cows wandering the streets.” “You must be kidding.” “Wild horses couldn’t ... ”

In 2017, I went to India for the first time. Last month I returned from my fifth trip to the country.

Street photography is far more than a hobby; it’s a passion. I’m happily retired and answer to no one ... except my wife (of course). India is simply a visual overload that I can’t resist.

During my recent three-week trip, I traveled to New Delhi, Kochi, Chennai, Kolkata, Varanasi, Mathura and back to New Delhi.

This series kicks off with New Delhi, a city of about 34-million people and the nation’s capital. These photographs include scenes from the lead image in the Turkman Gate District of Old Delhi, followed by both Ed milad un nabhi, an annual Muslim festival, and a Muslim market near the Metropolitan Hotel in Connaught Place.

Over the next two weeks, I intend to post many other images of my recent time in India.

I owe a huge debt of thanks to longtime New Delhi resident Anil Sharma, who is my friend, my guide to all things about India, and one of the most decent people I’ve ever known.

I also owe a huge debt to Genoa-based Batsceba Hardy, the driving force behind Progressive-Street – found on Facebook, who persuaded me to set aside B&W photography in favor of color for my first trip to India. I took her advice in 2017, and never looked back.

And, it goes without saying that I owe a huge debt to my wife for being a genuine partner in life. She reminds me every day that I’ve been graced with the Luck of the Irish.

New Delhi – Eid Milad un Nabi Friday, September 5, 2025. This date aligns with the observance of the holiday throughout India.

The celebrations focus on the birth anniversary of the Prophet Muhammad and generally encompass prayers, community gatherings, and substantial processions.